Calves, Lambs, Piglets and Puppies?
Last week I was warned (by a doggie person!) that a feature on puppy farming in Ireland was to be featured in RTE One’s Ear to the Ground show. I cringed at the thought of seeing puppies and their mothers in deplorable conditions and of ‘glib’ puppy farmers out to make a buck. So on Sunday afternoon I tuned in ready to hide my eyes if I saw anything too upsetting…
The reality couldn’t be further from this however and although I was upset it was an anger that I have rarely experienced before.
Puppy farms or puppy mills as they are often called are just as they sound – high volume, intensive farming of domestic dogs. But we are not talking about agricultural animals such as cattle, sheep and pigs – we are talking about raising animals destined to be household pets as if they were livestock.
The show opened with a comment from the journalist reporting that in the past we would go to our local farmer who happened to have a litter when we wanted a puppy. This was his segueway into discussing the farming of puppies in an ‘industry’ that exports 30,000 puppies a year from Ireland to the UK alone, as well exporting them to places further away. It’s no wonder that Ireland has earned the name ‘puppy farm capital of Europe’.
You can watch the segment here:
To the untrained eye, perhaps puppy farms look like the perfect place to get your puppy but when you look closer the real menace is revealed. Let’s analyse the goings on in this show and hopefully expose this meant-to-be-expose.
- the piece starts with an introduction comparing the search for a working farm dog with puppies produced on puppy farms – this is very inaccurate as puppy farms are particularly concerned with producing puppies for the lucrative pet market; just look at the types and breeds of dogs produced
- some footage of the DSPCA shelter in Rathfarnham is shown - notice how different the dogs in the shelter act compared to many of the dogs and puppies seen on the puppy farms; this is very telling as dogs in shelters don’t always exhibit healthy or normal behaviours. Also the issue with featuring this organisation is questionable as they do not have a direct responsibility in relation to puppy farming rather the ISPCA do and their input would have been far more valuable
- the first puppy farmer featured states “that the vast majority of breeders look after their dogs extremely well” – unfortunately the stats or indeed my experience (nor the experiences of many others in behaviour and/or rescue) does not support this statement
- at around 2 minutes into the clip notice the stand-offish behaviour of the Boxer puppies; anything other than a delight in running towards humans is absolutely abnormal in puppies of this age and should raise some very serious red flags for anyone seeing this
- at about 3 minutes into the clip we are brought into a “whelping shed” which is quickly equated to a “calving shed” on a dairy farm – more on this later
- puppy farmers are able to charge EUR300-1500 per puppy – this is a lucrative business so there is obviously great incentive in keeping this practice going
- in the “whelping shed” notice just how clean the bedding is in each of the small pens – anybody who has ever owned just ONE puppy knows its impossible to keep their area clean for any longer than a couple of minutes – this leads me to believe that these pens were thoroughly cleaned before and during filming in an attempt to paint a rosier picture
- the former beef farmers featured prominently throughout this clip are located in Tyrone so are not affected by incoming dog breeding establishment legislation – again another irrelevant and questionable inclusion by the producers/journalist involved
- at about 3.50 minutes notice the wary behaviour of the Shih Tzu mum, the Bichon mum and the JRT/Corgi type mum; also notice the matted coats of the Bichon and Newfoundland mums – again suggesting to me that conditions are not always so clean
- at around 4.30 minutes one of the puppy farmers discusses a problem raised by the journalist- that of ensuring that the dogs are exercised; the farmer explains that his opening of pens sees dogs unwilling to attempt to escape as “they know nothing else” – this is pretty much a description of an institutionalised and terribly undersocialised animal, and not the happy content dog as is intended to describe
- this same puppy farmer describes their dogs being able to exercise within their pens and that if a vet were to ascertain that a dog needed more attention in relation to behaviour that that would be provided – first of all it should be understood that unless a vet has extra qualifications to his name then he/she is not qualified to analyse behavioural health; nor was any vet featured on the show to challenge or verify these claims
- at about 5.40 minutes we see another puppy farmer describe his operation, albeit smaller than the previous one. This puppy farmer talks about exercising his dogs about 3 times a week and leaving a radio on to ensure socialisation – this is nowhere near adequate to ensure that a dog is healthy nor is it acceptable as a method of socialising puppies or indeed adult dogs
- this puppy farmer also states that his dogs are not in small, cramped pens but instead in all manner of housing as can be seen on the clip; one shot shows a group of Bichons in muddy conditions with terribly matted coats
- one prominently featured puppy farmer states that “dogs must be bred somewhere” - this is actually something I agree with but the devil is in the details!! Even though I am heavily involved in rescue and welfare work I still believe that pedigree dogs should be bred. But I believe that to breed dogs in a responsible fashion to ensure health, improvement in the breed, behavioural health and great pet animals that profit must come toward the bottom of the list of priorities. This means that breeding animals must be health screened and if not suitable they should be neutered. This means that breeders must be proficient at puppy rearing and socialisation so as to develop the best pet and companion animals. Check out our post giving a socialisation plan for breeders - this is a bare minimum plan to ensure that their puppies grow up to be behaviourally healthy. Do you think intensively reared puppies can even be provided with this level of care? If breeders are not doing this minimum then DO NOT BUY FROM THEM.
- John Gormley TD was also briefly featured discussing new dog breeding establishment legislation that is incoming to Ireland – I can only guess that the imminence of this legislation is causing some panic among puppy farmers hence the sympathetic light with which they are featured on this show. This new legislation does not cover welfare issues at all but more tackles licencing and fees of breeding establishments.
- Toward the end one prominently featured puppy farmer discusses the work of the Canine Breeders of Ireland, a dog breeding association established apparently by puppy farmers wishing to lobby government so that they can continue, under legislation, to breed puppies int he same conditions as livestock. Although from 2004 this parliamentary debate gives you a good idea of the goals of such puppy farming organisations.
After watching the show several times at this stage I am not as annoyed towards the puppy farmers as I am toward the show itself, the journalist, the producers and the TV channel. To portray such a controversial industry in such a positive light is questionable, in the first place. But then to leave out any comments or alternative views from relevant pet health care professionals is downright inappropriate. In fact, several health issues were glossed over and only given a one sided explanation.
In response to these points representatives have stated they would prefer to let people make up their own mind. That is something I am all for but how are people expected to do this if never given the full, unbiased picture?
Puppies cannot be reared successfully (from a behavioural and socialisation point of view) in the same manner as livestock.
First off, livestock and family pets have slightly different destinations, don’t you think? You cannot expect a puppy who has lived in these even glossed over conditions to come into a family home with children, many different people types, household noises, TV going, meeting other pets, walking in a neighbourhood and all of the many and varied things we expect from our dogs as pets. Toilet training is a huge issues with dogs raised in conditions such as these as they have never learned to move out of their toileting area as they have not had the opportunity to do so.
We know that poor socialisation is the leading cause of behavioural issues in dogs ranging from separation distress to fears to aggression and everything else! Ireland already has inappropriate dog control law and knee-jerk BSL so it seems kinda pointless complaining unless we can catch the issue at the root – proper socialisation of puppies would mean little need for such legislation.
Second, the way in which puppies and livestock develop in respect to socialisation it totally different. Livestock are ‘precocial’ animals who are capable of moving away from momma within hours after birth. Therefore these young animals much go through super zipped socialisation in their first hours and days. Dogs, on the other hand, are ‘altricial’ and have a longer and more drawn out developmental period lasting about their first 12 weeks of life. If you get a puppy from such a place at 8 weeks old your puppy has missed at least two thirds of this essential socialisation time – time that you never get back and takes enourmous work to over come this deficiency.
Please please please pass this information on so that we can make a difference to lots of dog’s lives. The issue of puppy farming must be publicised accurately so as to educate pet owners and prospective pet owners of the real side of puppy farming. If you have any ideas or comments in relation to puppy farming and this clip please leave a comment here to get discussion going.
If you feel as strongly about this as I do please make a formal complaint to the Broadcasting Authority of Ireland. Here is a link to the complaint form.
People really don’t want livestock instead of a pet dog, do they?
Add comment February 10, 2010
Day 31 – final day round up
Can’t believe that we have come to the end of Train Your Dog Month. I hope you have enjoyed all the training fun and that you own a happier pet.
By the end the best lesson to take away is to have fun with your dog and not get too obsessed with training and disciplining. Training and games should not be polar opposites and in fact there is no need for them to be separate at all.
I really hope that this little month long experiment has spurred you on to continue to live and train your dog as part of everyday life.
A dog that has received just a little training and is better able to live in the human world is a far safer, happier dog than one who has not.
Just check out the round up of some of the useful exercises we have started this month:
- positions on the move – distance sits
- boundary training
- loose leash walking
- stays
- speak/shush
- doorbell game
- sofa manners
- distraction recalls
- object exchanges
- tug/jazz up & settle down
- leave it/take it
- polite greetings
- some cute tricks: play dead, beg, bow, roll over
- settle down
- enjoying handling of body areas
- resource guarding prevention
WOW! if your dog has even a fraction of these under his belt he is already a welcome addition and can be taken lots of dog friendly places with his people – a true companion.
Well done everyone and thanks to all who supported and spread the word.
Remember, training a dog is not just for one month – it’s for life!
2 comments February 7, 2010
Day 30
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) and out&about
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, tug toy, your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Training Challenge: today we are going to work on generalising behaviours; something that dogs often have trouble with. This means to teach behaviours in all sorts of situations – the more variety the better! Think of all the places that you would like your dog to behave in – now you need to train him to behave in all of these places and circumstances
(you can use food rewards today if you like but only where needed – you should have an idea by now where you might be able to use a real life reward instead)
Challenge 1: recall relays in one totally new place today.
You will need at least one assistant for this one but try to work with as many as possible. Call your dog, ask for a sit, take collar, give treat and have next person call.
Remember to work on a long line and/or in a secured area if you are out and about.
Challenge 2: one step sit in two new places today
If you are really confident in your dog’s ability try in a couple of outdoor locations. If you don’t think you’re up to that yet keep practicing indoors – you will get there.
Challenge 3: down stays in three new places
If the areas that you practice in today are higher distraction reduce duration and distance. If not continue to build duration and distance.
Challenge 4: leave it in one new place today
Set up the mock real life situation today by pretending to be busy and then accidentally on purposely dropping something yummy.
Ask your dog to leave it and if he does, pick up the yummy and deliver a different treat and repeat the exercise.
Challenge 5: tug and jazz up & settle down in two new places
Find two places in which you have never practiced this exercise before and have couple of rounds of jazz up and settle down.
Use tug to get your dog jazzed up and perhaps incorporate the above down stay exercise too.
Printer friendlier version here
Add comment February 6, 2010
Day 29
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) and out & about
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Training Challenge: NO food rewards today at all – real life rewards only!! Feed all of your dog’s daily rations from enrichment toys while you practice approaching and tossing some higher value rewards. But no food for any other training exercise!
Challenge 1: boundary training at front door and at front gate
Approach the boundary and ask for a sit, step over the boundary and then call your dog to follow you.
Real Life Reward: allow him to sniff about outside the boundary for a little bit before repeating the exercise a couple of times.
Challenge 2: loose leash walking – one step sit
This is a tough exercise so start easy and then build. Take a step away from your dog; at this stage he should catch up to you pretty quickly. As soon as he does wait for him to sit and then say YES! and take another step forward.
Practice on your way to the front door after preparing for walkies.
Real Life Reward: moving forward toward the door for walkies
Challenge 3: stays plus
Get your dog all jazzed up with a game of tug.
Ask for a sit stay for twice the length of the game of tug (e.g. tug game of 30 seconds, sit stay of one minute) and then give the release fee. Have another really jazzed up game of tug.
Ask for a down stay for twice the length of the game of tug.
There is no need to increase distance or duration too much as this is tough for your dog being asked to stay after a jazzing up.
You need an assistant for the stand stay challenge. Ask your dog for a stand stay and then have your assistant step forward to pet your dog.
If he can do that reward with having the assistant jazz your dog up!
Real Life Reward: jazzing up is always a treat to your dog and having him settle quickly is your treat!
Challenge 4: ask for 10 distance sits today, each and everyone for a real life reward such as sniffing, greeting, running, playing, off leash or anything that your dog wants.
Printer Friendlier version here.
Add comment February 5, 2010
Day 28
Today’s exercises: doorbell game, boundary training, follow-stop-sit-focus, distractions recalls, stays, settle routine
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) and especially out and about today
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Top Training Tip: there is often lots of discussion among trainers about training equipment such as leashes and collars, toys and treats. Although we at Pet Central have some pretty clear ideas about equipment we like and don’t like no matter what it is it is just a tool. Tools are for teaching – if they are not helping the dog’s behaviour to change then they are not working. The real test comes when you remove the tool: does your dog still behave?
Exercise 1: doorbell game
On Day 27 we started a new game to help with doorbell craziness. If you have more than one dog this is certainly one that must be practiced one dog at a time!
Have your dog’s bed ready near the door and your assistant outside ready to push the door bell.
As soon as the doorbell rings, show your dog the yummiest of yummies and place it on your dog’s bed. Repeat at least 10 times today.
This is such a challenging, multi-staged exercise that work on this one will need to continue.
Lots to do out on walkies today:
Exercise 2: boundary training at the front gate
Approach the front gate/entrance to your property and ask for a sit, say YES!, call your dog with you and bound forward.
Allow your dog some sniffing and investigating before returning back inside the boundary to repeat the exercise.
If your dog tries to move forward use your NRM “uh-oh!” and bring him back inside the house to really let him know that moving forward without permission leads to not-so-nice things!
If your dog makes a mistake always try to have at least one success so as to keep your dog motivated and up beat. Even if you have had enough of an exercise for the day, ask your dog to do something that you know he will ace and end on a successful note.
Exercise 3: follow, stop, sit & focus
While out and about today have a lovely lively game of follow me. Work at a level of distraction that your dog can cope with so if he seems distracted and unfocused work in a lower distraction area and allow your dog to sniff around first.
Move at a lively pace and talk to your dog excitedly so as to keep your dog interested. Remember, do the opposite to your dog – if he slows you speed up, if he goes right you go left and so on. Keep your dog on a long line and/or work in a secured area.
Every few steps stop and ask your dog to sit (you can incorporate your distance sit exercise here too!) and then ask for eye contact.
Reward with a food treat and bound forward.
This is a great high energy game so why not incorporate some tugging and settling in there too. Use a quick tug game to reward following, then have a brief settle and bound on with the follow me game as a reward. I can’t count how many obedience exercises are in there, there are that many!!
Exercise 4: distraction recalls out on walkies
Still working on a long line and/or in a secure area have a few runs of distraction recall. Allow your dog to sniff an area and then call him once. Encourage him with kissy noises, excited voice and as soon as he gets close enough ask for a sit.
Take his collar and run with him back to the sniffing area.
Your dog should be getting pretty good at this one so you can start to move further away from a sniffing area to up the challenge.
Exercise 5: stays while out and about
Ooooh I hear nervous dog owners out there!!! With your dog on leash and in a low distraction area ask your dog for a sit or down position (you can swap over and practice the other one next).
Because this exercise raises the distraction level we are going to minimise everything else so work as you did when you first started the stay exercise. Stand toe to toe with your dog and deliver food treats every couple of seconds.
Try a stay for about 30 seconds and then release the dog and swap over and practice the other position.
Practice this exercise towards the end of your walk so that your dog is a little more chilled out.
Exercise 6: settle routine
Wow that was a tough day so have your dog settle for some handling and massage to help relax everyone.
Give your dog a stuffed Kong and allow him to work on it for several minutes before approaching and tossing a few nice treats. Repeat a few approaches and then leave your dog to enjoy his chew toy.
That was such a busy day, full of activity and challenges. Pet Central is still having technical problems resulting in problems with posting training plans. We are nearly at the finish line so keep going – this little break will have done you and your dog good.
Printer friendlier version here.
Add comment February 4, 2010
Day 27
Today’s exercises: boundary training, distance sits, stays, the door bell game, leave it, tug, settle, handling and resource guarding prevention
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) and out & about
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, tug toy, really high value treats (your dogs absolute favourite), your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Top Training Tip: Make sure your dog gets plenty of rest and quiet time everyday. This is especially important for young dogs, who just like children have difficulty behaving nicely if over tired. Dogs that don’t get enough quiet time are living in a constant state of excitement – this is very taxing on your dog and will lead to anxiety and poor impulse control. By teaching your dog to be calm and then helping to do this even in exciting situations will help to keep your dog healthier and better behaved.
Exercise 1: boundary training
On Day 26 we brought this behaviour outside to the front gate. Practice this today several times when on the way out on walkies.
Remember to give your dog some outside time sniffing before going back into repeat the exercise so that he is rewarded for sitting when asked.
Exercise 2: keep practicing those distance sits today
Try to work in three different rooms today asking for 10 distance sits today. Sounds tough but you can do it!!
Exercise 3: stays
For sit and down stays today we are going to add another challenge. Along with the stepping away routine today also add a walk right around your dog while he is in position.
This can be very tough for your dog so feed lots of rewards while your dog is in position.
For the stand stay exercise we are really going to increase the challenge. Ask for a stand stay and build to a 10 count before allowing your dog to nibble a treat from your hand. Have an assistant come and press gently on your dog’s back.
Now that is difficult so remove the reward and use your NRM (‘uh-oh’) if he moves toward your assistant. Hold the treat behind your back, ask for a stand position and repeat the exercise.
Exercise 4: another leave it challenge today
Mock up a real life scenario such as pretending to be preparing treats at a kitchen counter and then accidentally-on purpose drop a piece.
Allow your dog to come forward and as he moves say ‘leave it’. Hopefully you don’t need to step in front of the treat and your dog should pull up and not dive on the treat.
If he ‘leaves’ the treat, pick up the treat, offer a different one saying take it.
We want to really challenge your dog (and you) with a very real life like situation. You could practice this while preparing dinner today to add to the reality (and challenge!).
Exercise 5: door bell game
Today we are going to start a new game that can be very tough for some dogs but really useful for owners. The idea of this one is to teach the dog to go to bed upon hearing the doorbell – your dog can’t jump on guests or bolt through the open door if he is lying on his bed!
As we are coming to the end of the program and this is an advanced exercise you will need to keep up the work on this one.
Bring your dog’s bed out to close by the door. This is the exercise that you need very high value rewards for – look at your Top Ten list, use number one for this exercise, have some lower value rewards too (such as kibble). You will also need an assistant door bell ringer too.
There are several stages to this exercise based on your behaviour: the doorbell ringing, you reaching for and opening the door, and then the guest coming in. Today we are just going to start really simply with this one on the first part. Obviously it becomes more and more difficult and the first part is the easiest (even though still difficult).
Bring your dog’s bed to within three or four steps of the front door. Have your assistant outside ready to ring!
Have them ring the door bell and as soon as they do, show your dog the high value yummy treat and put it on his bed.
You don’t need to say anything to him, don’t move toward the door-just show him the treat, put it on his bed and otherwise ignore him.
Repeat about ten times. Soon the door bell becomes a signal that something yummy is about to appear on his bed.
Here’s another version of the doorbell game from Nan Arthur over on clickertrianing.com
Exercise 6: tug, settle, handling, resource guarding prevention
End of another hard day so have a few rounds of tug-then-settle: get your dog all jazzed up with a 30 second tug game and then ask for a settle position for about a minute and repeat. This makes a perfect ad break game.
After a few rounds, ask for a more permanent settle position and do the handling exercise.
Then give your dog a stuffed Kong for several minutes, approach and toss some yummies and give him space. Repeat again after another few minutes and then leave him to relax.
WOW another tough day and we are nearly at the end of this program. Lots of work on some old favourites today: improving distance sits, leave it and boundary training, upping the challenge on stays by introducing some interesting distractions and the introduction of a totally new exercise: the doorbell game. Hopefully you are noticing a real difference – you have come so far, well done!
Printer friendlier version here.
Add comment January 31, 2010
Day 26
Today’s exercises: boundary training, distraction recalls, distance sits, stays, tug, settle routine
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) and out & about
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, tug toys, your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Top Training Tip: If your dog does not do as requested look at your own behaviour for answers: is the situation too distracting? are you too close to other dogs or people? is your dog scared or uncomfortable? have you thoroughly trained the behaviour? does your dog still rely on lures? does your dog have negative associations with the behaviour, the training situation or the trainer? is your dog too wound up or excited? You see, there are lots of reasons that your dog may not carry out a behaviour on cue and the buck stops with you and your training not the dog!!
Exercise 1: more distance positions today – keep practicing the work that we continued with yesterday.
Bring your dog out to the garden or other low distraction outdoor area and ask him for a sit position as he is doing something else. Ask for this position from at least one step away from him.
If he sits, say YES! and reward him. If he doesn’t sit first time, move toward him calmly asking him to sit. When he does say YES! but do not reward him with a food treat. Ask for another sit – food rewards are for first time performance!
Practice for ten sits today. If your dog is beginning to sit as soon as he is asked that’s great; if not don’t worry we will continue to work on this one.
Remember, allow your dog back to what he was doing after this exercise – training should not have the dog lose out on something interesting, if it does you will quickly un-train him! So give a food reward and then allow him to go back about his business – this is also the set up for repeating the exercise.
Since we have upped the challenge with this one today, allow your dog have some time to sniff around and play in this area so that he will find it a little easier to work. Always start out easy when challenging the dog with a new exercise or a new addition to an exercise.
Exercise 2: boundary training
On your way for walkies today, let’s practice the boundary training exercise at the boundary to your property such as the front gate. Continue practicing this exercise at the door to your house too – we are adding to it by moving outside.
Approach the gate and ask for a sit, say YES! and open the gate or step forward as a reward. Allow your dog to have some time sniffing and exploring outside the gate before coming back within your property to repeat.
If your dog doesn’t sit or if he moves off before you invite him, say ‘uh-oh!’ and move back in away from the gate.
You could combine this exercise with practicing the one-step-sit exercise, distance sits and loose leash walking.
Exercise 3: distraction recalls out and about
While out on walkies today, in a low distraction area, have a few rounds of distraction recalls. You don’t even need an assistant for this one – just use things that distract your dog such as sniffing or playing ball as rewards for recalling.
Exercise 4: stays
Building on yesterday’s stay exercise, try to take three steps away from your dog while he is in a sit or a down position (work on one position and then swap).
Take 3 steps back away from your dog, then return and reward. Take 3 steps to the left, return and reward. Take three steps to the right, return and reward.
Build your stand stay up to 6-10 seconds today. Ask your dog to stand and then wait for a 5 count before introducing the treat for your dog to nibble from your hand. Gently but firmly press on your dog’s back.
Repeat and try to build up one more second each time.
Exercise 5: tug-settle, handling and resource guarding routine
Have a few rounds of tug and settle this evening before having your dog settle for some handling and resource guarding work.
Handle all of his body areas and then give him a Kong to work on. Allow him to work on the Kong for four or five minutes and then approach as close as is comfortable (without touching or bending to your dog) and toss some really yummy treats.
Immediately leave your dog and repeat again after two or so minutes.
Today we took some exercises on the road so that your dog can begin to learn to cope with distractions and cues in new environments. Your dog is now learning to sit at your front gate/entrance, sit at a distance when asked outside, improving with distraction recalls, building time on stays in all three positions and continue to get better and better with the settling routine. By including lots of tug practice in there we are building a really solid ‘thank you’ cue, some impulse control training and of course a great, fun game!
Nearly there; you have been doing sooooo well, don’t stop now.
Printer friendlier version here.
Add comment January 28, 2010
Day 25
Pet Central’s computer woes continue so we are doing our best to keep up to date – we will be back to normal soon, paws crossed!
Today’s exercises: boundary training, distance sit, stays, default loose leash, speak/shush, settle routine
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) and out&about
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Top Training Tip: A really interesting discussion is going over on DogStar Daily right now about ‘punishment’. Technically speaking a punisher is something that decreases a behaviour over time. So if we want to reduce an undesirable behaviour we can use a punisher BUT punishers do not need to be intimidating, scary or painful. If a person uses an aversive, which is anything the animal finds unpleasant, and it doesn’t cause a reduction in the behaviour it is not a punisher. If a person has to continually jerk their dog’s leash then they are not punishing – the dog still pulls! In positive training we use the withdrawal of rewards as a way of reducing an unwanted behaviour but we also teach an alternative behaviour that we reward heavily rather than just relying on punishing. When training always always always ask ‘what would I prefer my dog to do?’ and teach the dog to do something rather than to stop doing something.
Exercise 1: more distance positions today – keep practicing the work that we started over the last couple of days
In a low distraction indoor area, ask your dog for a sit position while he is doing something else. Ask for this position from at least one step away from him.
If he sits, say YES! and reward him. If he doesn’t sit first time, move toward him calmly asking him to sit. When he does say YES! but do not reward him with a food treat. Ask for another sit – food rewards are for first time performance!
Practice for ten sits today. If your dog is beginning to sit as soon as he is asked that’s great; if not don’t worry we will continue to work on this one.
Remember, allow your dog back to what he was doing after this exercise – training should not have the dog lose out on something interesting, if it does you will quickly un-train him! So give a food reward and then allow him back to his business.
Here is some great info on distance sits from DogStar Daily and Dr D.
Exercise 2: boundary training
We have been working on boundary training quite a bit over the last couple of weeks so lets keep it up and really challenge the dog.
Use the above distance sit exercise as part of your practice today. Remember, only leash your dog and prepare for walkies when your dog is calm.
With your dog on leash, walk toward the door (retain a loose leash at ALL times!) and ask your dog to sit while on the move. Hopefully your dog gets the idea and has begun to anticipate the sit request when you approach the door – if not practice lots of approaches each day to really hammer this home!
As soon as your dog sits, say YES! and open the door as reward. If he moves, say ‘uh-oh!’ and close the door taking care not to scare your dog with it.
Step outside through the open door and only call the dog through once he is calm and sitting. Allow him have some outdoor sniffing time and then repeat.
Repeat a few times before walkies – we will be upping the challenge on this important exercise soon so keep working.
Exercise 3: default loose leash out on walkies
In a quiet and low distraction outdoor area practice our default loose leash exercise that we started on Day 15.
Step to the end of the leash so that it is taut but not pulling on your dog’s collar. When your dog moves to loosen the leash say YES!, show him a food treat and place it on the ground at the outside of your foot closest to your dog.
Move to the end of the leash and repeat. Repeat for at least ten big steps today.
If you have trouble with this exercise while out and about, practice a little in the house before leaving and maybe work in an area that the dog has already had a chance to sniff around in or perhaps your own garden. Remember to make learning a little easier at the beginning so as to keep the dog successful.
Exercise 4: stays
There are three stay positions and four things that we can do to make these positions more challenging. The three stay positions are sit, down and stand. We can add distance, duration, distraction and difficulty to each of these positions to increase the challenge.
Sit and down stays are usually easier for most dogs so we have started to add a little bit of duration to these already. Stand is tough though so we are still working on getting and keeping position.
Sit and down: if your dog has been progressing well with these stays start this exercise today. Ask your dog for a sit or down (settle) position and then swap.
Take two normal sized steps away from your dog moving directly back – return to him immediately and give him a food reward. Take two steps away from the dog moving directly to the right, then return and reward. Take two steps away directly to the left, return and reward.
Here we are building both duration and distance. Remember to watch your dog for any signs of breaking position – if he looks like he is thinking about it, just remind him with a calm ‘sit’ or ‘down’ cue.
Stand: this is the tough one so we are still building time in position without a lure
Ask your dog for a stand position and count to 4 before saying YES! Reward your dog with a treat that he can nibble from your hand. While he nibbles put some gentle pressure on your dogs back, just enough that you feel resistance.
Can you get your dog stand staying before the treat for a 6 or 7 count? Build for that today!
Exercise 5: speak/shush
Don’t worry we haven’t forgotten about the barkers!
Do you remember the sequence for this exercise? If not here it is again: say ‘speak’, have someone ring door bell, allow three barks, say ‘shush!’ show treat.
Is your dog speaking on cue without the prompt (the doorbell)? Does he stop barking on cue before he sees the treat?
Keep practicing!
Exercise 6: settle, handling and resource guarding prevention
You must be really good at this routine by now but we keep practicing because it’s so important.
Have your dog settle and handle all his body areas; give him a stuffed Kong and let him work on it for several minutes. Approach and toss a few high value treats and move away. Repeat in a few minutes.
When you approach are you able to move closer without your dog showing any signs of discomfort? These might include stiffening, eating faster, chin over Kong, growling etc. If not do not approach any closer than a comfortable distance for your dog. If your dog is uncomfortable, only allow him work on the Kong for a few seconds before approaching and then only approach within your dog’s safe distance.
If your dog is comfortable, offer the high value treats from within one step from him and then move away.
Please please contact us if you have any worries about your dog’s behaviour especially in relation to aggression and/or guarding.
Another tough day of training – you must be seeing such a difference in your dog’s behaviour and his relationship with you; that’s priceless well done!
By the end of Day 25 your dog is responding to a sit cue from a distance even at the front door, keeping a loose leash out and about, staying in position a little longer, speaking and shushing on cue (almost!) and improving all the time with the settle routine.
Printer friendlier version here.
Add comment January 28, 2010
Introduction to Canine Behaviour Course
As part of Pet Central’s continuing effort in dog welfare education Anne will be offering a 20 hour evening course on canine behaviour. This course is designed for those interested in learning more about their four legged friend and will also serve as a great taster for those wishing to progress in studying in this fascinating area.
Students have the option of completing the assessment work but are more than welcome to complete the course and forget about the pressure of assignments!
This course will be run over nine evenings with plenty of discussion time too. Resources will be provided to students both in hard copy form in class as well as via a Yahoo! group online.
This course is perfect for pet owners, fosterers, volunteers, trainee trainers, groomers, pet shop staff and all other dog lovers.
The topics covered include:
- introduction to animal behaviour and animal cognition
- the dog training and behaviour industry
- history of the domestic dog
- dog social behaviour – dispelling the myths
- canine communication (we will spend lots and lots of time on this!)
- how dogs learn
- behavioural health and behavioural development
- human-dog relationship
- behaviour modification
- aggression
This course will start next Monday evening at 7pm in Killester College, Collins Avenue, Dublin and costs EUR100 – thats only E5 per hour!!
Please contact Anne if you are interested on Wednesday or Thursday to be sure of getting a place. Text her on 086 8765267 or e-mail to anne.petcentral@gmail.com for more details and to book.
Come on, join in – talking about dogs every class – heaven!!
Add comment January 27, 2010
Day 24
Today’s exercises: distance positions, one step sit LLW, distraction recalls, tricks, tug, settle, handling and resource guarding prevention
Training locations: indoors – in the kitchen, living room and entrance hall; outdoors – back garden (low distraction area) out & about
Tools required: training mix, dog bed, flat collar and leash (a front clip harness too), stuffed Kongs, tug toy, your dog and the rest of your family
Today’s Top Training Tip: dogs are social animals that bond strongly with their nearest and dearest – you! This means that they don’t like to spend time alone separated from you. If leaving your pet dog alone make sure that he is in a dog-proof area, was exercised and toileted before you left and has plenty to occupy him while alone. Separation related behaviour issues are often serious and require professional help but just making sure that your dog has some stuffed chew toys to work on can help to keep his distress minimised; if he is busy with a stuffed chew toy he can’t bark, pee, chew, destroy, run around and all the other things dogs often do in the name of ‘separation fun’! Teaching dogs to be on their own is an important part of socialisation for puppies and young dogs but alone training can begin at any age.
Exercise 1: more distance positions today – keep practicing the work that we started yesterday.
In a low distraction area, ask your dog for a sit position as he is doing something else. Ask for this position from at least one step away from him.
If he sits, say YES! and reward him. If he doesn’t sit first time, move toward him calmly asking him to sit. When he does say YES! but do not reward him with a food treat. Ask for another sit – food rewards are for first time performance!
Practice for ten sits today. If your dog is beginning to sit as soon as he is asked that’s great; if not don’t worry we will continue to work on this one.
Remember, allow your dog back to what he was doing after this exercise – training should not have the dog lose out on something interesting, if it does you will quickly un-train him! So give a food reward and then allow him back to his business.
Exercise 2: one step sit
Just as we did yesterday, move to the end of the leash and wait for your dog to catch up and sit. He is probably getting pretty quick with this one.
As soon as he sits, say YES! and give a food reward. Try taking two steps – he should be walking with you giving eye contact. Stop after two steps, wait for him to sit and say YES! and reward.
If he is doing well with two steps start building today. Try three steps first and then four. Try to build to five steps in a row, loose leash, dog walking close, giving eye contact and sitting when you stop – phew, if he can do that WOW well done!
Remember, in any exercise that requires a leash always wait for your dog to be calm before attaching his leash.
If your dog has trouble with this one, don’t walk toward the door while doing this exercise just yet. That might be a little difficult for your dog so we can save that for later.
Exercise 3: on walkies have a round of distraction recalls
We haven’t played this one for a while so let’s give it a try out on walkies today. Work in a secure area or with your dog on a long line. You don’t necessarily need an assistant for this one so no excuses!
Allow your dog to go and sniff an area. After less than minute of sniffing call your dog with his recall cue once (e.g. Rove, come). Clap, make kissy noises, even move away from him etc. to attract him to you.
As soon as he gets to you, take his collar, give a high value food reward and bring straight back to the sniffing area. Allow him to sniff around again and then repeat the exercise.
Exercise 4: tricks – bow and roll over
These exercises may cause a little bit of confusion as they have parts of other exercises in them, particularly the down exercise. After practicing these tricks work in a few position changes with lots of downs and reward these positions. This will help to remind him that down on cue still gets rewarded.
Yesterday we started two new tricks that we are still luring.
Bow:
Ask your dog for a stand. Hold a lure in your hand and guide your dog’s head down toward the floor directly between his front feet. As he leans back and lowers his head to get the treat say YES! and give him the treat.
Work on getting the dog to get his elbows flat to the floor today. Once we can lure the full behaviour (butt in the air, head down and elbows flat to the floor) you only have 8 lures before moving onto hand signals.
Roll over:
Ask your dog for a down-settle position. Hold a lure in your hand and guide your dog’s head back and over, just as you did when teaching the play dead trick.
With roll over continue to guide your dog’s head all the way around so that he rolls back into a settle position.
As soon as he does, say YES! and reward him.
Exercise 5: tug, settle, handling and resource guarding prevention
Have a few rounds of tug-jazz up and settle down during an ad break this evening. Allow your dog to play tug for a minute or so, cue a ‘thank you’, reward and then ask for a settle for about two minutes. Repeat for a few more rounds before asking your dog to settle for some handling.
Give him a stuffed Kong for five minutes, then approach and toss some high value treats and move away immediately. Repeat again after about three minutes and then leave him to work on the stuffed chewtoy.
Well done – we carried on from some of yesterdays exercises, distance positions, one-step-sit, tricks, and we revised some old favourites: distraction recalls and the settle routine. More coming…
Printer friendlier version here.
Add comment January 26, 2010
